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Salvo’s, 115, Otley Road, Headingley, Leeds: it cant be easy being an Italian in Leeds. All that talk about cricket and Tetley’s / Foster’s beer. Do you stand on a corner and sing about ice cream to establish your credentials? Or you could become a pizza man to feel really Roman.
At this small and bubbly eatery just by the Otley turnpike (park on the pavement/ grass everyone else seems to) the little fellow in charge of the pizzas (exactly three minutes in the oven) made with considerable élan under the noses (literally) of the customers makes a good job of being “Italian”. He shouts a lot, waves his arms about, and whistles/ sings along with the Musak. He also manages to whistle out of tune, which can’t be easy.
Salvo’s gives a warm and friendly welcome, mainly in Leeds Loinese from the local girls who are waitresses. The menu is imaginative and mostly rewarding, although it pays to pick the brains of pals more familiar with the occasional vaguary, e.g. “Don’t have the chicken tikka pal” might be good advice. Sprats in mustard sauce (£1.60) work very well, as does the authentic fishy soup (£1.30). Try the lambs kidneys sautéed with chilli, garlic, mushrooms and with a mustard sauce, and the Timballo di Maccheroni (baked pasta with meatballs, ham, cheese and cream).
Pink table cloths, tiled floors, ceiling fans and ready smiles make this a busy corner of Headingley, which despite it literai / glitterati pretentions remains desert-like food wise. And no boring photographs of the Italian national team winning some football trophy or other in Spain a few years ago. Limited wine list. Around £20 for two with vino.
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