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Fighting off the young kids on the block is a constant challenge to the established eateries of Leeds.
The city centre now offers a variety of options that would have been undreamed of just a decade ago. The temptations of Thai, the joys of Japanese and the finesse of French are catered for in number and there’s also the choice of style, price and sheer snob value for those wanting to spread their wings.
And so it is that performers who once enjoyed a clear run at our taste buds and wallets find themselves battling in a crowded – but still bountiful – market. Salvo’s has been a fixture in this particular corner of Leeds for more than 20 years and throughout has been a popular stopping off point along the Otley Road.
Away from the student dominated heart of Headingley it is extremely popular, as we found out as soon as we stepped inside its stylish interior one lunchtime last week.
Booking at lunchtimes is advisable we were told by one waitress (bookings aren’t taken for the evenings) but she must have sensed our growing panic and within seconds we were seated as perusing the well stocked menu.
The more technologically advanced can book through Salvo’s own website (www.salvos.co.uk) which also offers a look at the menus and a potted history of its three decades.
A recent entry in the 2001 Good Food Guide may have had something to do with its popularity but this felt like it was a fairly typical lunchtime scene for Salvo’s.
This is very much an Italian restaurant. John and Geppino Dammone who run it are proud to boast that many ingredients are specially imported from Italy and even prouder that their restaurant is apparently the only Italian in West Yorkshire to claim a spot in the aforementioned guide.
Quite an achievement given the competition.
The place was phenomenally busy and for those normally office/shop or home bound during the day it was a surprise to see that so many people had found the time to dine out.
Maybe it has something to do with the eat for a fiver lunchtime option which offers two courses for the minimal outlay of one crisp blue note. From around a half dozen choices we opted for guacamole with tomatoes, red onions, olive oil and basil sitting atop three large crispy bread pieces and green bean and chicken salad which came as a perfectly presented pile and was a great mix of light tastes complemented by more olive oil.
For the main courses the tagliatelle with chicken and mushroom was judged to be “just right” and “neither too creamy, nor dry”. The only disappointment was the fish cannelloni (an extra £2.50) which majored on the cod and came topped with a crispy cheese but overall was a little dry.
Side orders of pizza marinara (£3.50) and a green salad (£2.30) superbly topped with pine kernels and croutons bumped up the price.
Soon getting into the flow of lunchtime relaxing, Italian bottled lager (£2.40) and crispy dry white wine (£2.60) provided perfect accompaniment.
Among the special starters on offer from the main menu were mussels marinara (£5.40), baby mozzarella dusted in gremolata, sun ripened on the vine tomato mousse (£4.70). For main courses there was roast cod with a pesto crust and sweet pepper sauce (£12.50), and Salvo’s special pizza (£7.50). Observant staff drifted from table to table in a well practiced style and as we ate it was interesting to see the mix of business types, families, minor celebrities and friends who kept up a constant buzz of chatter. No doubt many have been coming back here for years and will continue to do so as long as Salvo’s continues to fight the competition with such style.
Star ratings
+++ (3)
++++ (3)
++++ (4)
++++ (4)
+++++ EXCELLENT ++++ VERY GOOD +++ GOOD ++ AVERAGE + POOR
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