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It’s 30 years old and still going strong. Salvo’s - Headingley’s favourite Italian (if not Leeds’) - just goes from strength to strength. But it’s certainly not stuck in a time warp as it’s been through several upgrades since its 1976 beginnings. Most recently, it opened the first Salumeria in Leeds (a couple of doors down), selling all those Italian goodies that are so hard to find. The Salumeria (the Italian name given to a meat curing shop) offers some of the finest coffee in town, along with light bites to eat, Italian cakes and biscuits and even pashminas from the old country. But the little big mamma that is Salvo’s, that vital, passionate Headingley institution, has stirred up quite a fuss not only locally but in the national press too. The Times voted it into the top 10 Italians in the UK, whereas The Observer positioned it in the top five.
It’s been a favourite, justifiably, for these past three decades for several reasons. It has that genuine all-Italian atmosphere, Italian chefs, Italian ownership, Italian ingredients in the genuine Italian dishes. It is still Italian-owned by the Dammone family with John and Gip, the two brothers, keen as ever to excel as their father Salvo did for all those years. Their pride and passion has evolved beyond the four walls of the tiny restaurant now by adding several al fresco tables to the front, complete with perspex wind shields and heaters to seat around 100 all told. It looks good, feels good and by Salvo it is good -- if you get the chance to find a table. Bear that last point seriously. The policy here is first come first served, with no bookings taken -- the way its always been. It’s a place to go for couples and businesspeople as much as families. A great mix of old and new, tradition combined with fashion and modernity. What you must bear in mind is that it can get a little loud, due to the fact people do tend to enjoy themselves here, but it draws a decent crowd.
What you get at Salvo’s is a good choice of dishes, ranging from the traditional and genuinely Mediterranean, to the not-so-typical. If you can find it amongst the specials, it’s worth ordering for starters the Gorgonzola and Walnut Tart with rocket and spicy apple & sage dressing (£5.95). Then there’s Arrosto di Manzo Pepato, a rare roasted Angus sirloin (reared in North Yorkshire) with shaved parmesan, rocket & pickled vegetables (£6.50). For the purists, how about Grilled Field Mushrooms with garlic butter & roast pepper cream (£5.95). For mains, try asking for Baked Cod with Leek mash and Canellini Beans Pizzaiola (£14.50), or Wild Mushroom Risotto in truffle oil, parmesan shavings (£10.95 - £13.95 with pigeon breast). If your juices don’t start flowing to the sound of that, then how about Spirali Primavera - short springs with a sauté of asparagus, green chilli, chives, feta and rocket (£8.45). For the carnivores amongst us, they have Maccheroni con Polpettone, which is short pasta with sliced veal meatloaf, reared by Langthornes of North Yorkshire, but retaining its Italian integrity with some Roman pecorino cheese (£8.45). We have to mention the humble staple pizza here, and they, like everyone, have their own way of doing it. Take the Salvo’s vegetarian option of the Carciofi -- artichokes, garlic, spinach leaves, pine nuts (£8.25). Or, at the same price the Francescana, with their own roast ham, sauté mushrooms, or the folded version - the Kiev, folded & stuffed with chicken, ham, garlic butter & cheese (£8.45).
Salvo’s own home baked Lasagne (£8.45) is a decent staple number, with a rather crisper layer of cheese over the top - if you like it well done - not to everyone’s taste. But always there for the community, Salvo’s make a donation of 50p to Wheatfields hospice in Headingley on one of their alternative Lasagne - the Pasta Casalingha (£9.25) - otherwise known as the ‘Wheatfields’ - a home style baked lasagna with Neapolitan sausage, mozzarella & tomato sauce, so you can eat well in the knowledge that you’re helping local causes too.
It’s all about building long-term relationships here, and none more so than with their suppliers, whether it’s the veg man of 30 years, or their customers. There are many regulars that show up here for the taste of Italy. They import their extra virgin olive oil directly from Puglia and their Pasta is from Gragnano, Naples, the most well-regarded region for pasta production in Italy, they say. And while the mozzarella di bufala arrives fresh from Latteria Sorrentina in Italy every week, some ingredients just have to be bought locally, so the eggs are from the farm up the road, and they are selective about their dairy products, fish and meats, so all of their suppliers are well chosen. It’s a comforting feeling to know that you’re eating in a restaurant that places a premium on high quality - not that you’ll be paying through the nose for this though - Salvo’s prices are renowned to be moderate for the quality.
Expect to be served by Italians from mainland Italy and its islands such as Sardinia (from where you’ll find some excellent wine here) and Sicily, together with the odd Spaniard and English. They are all good and seem to care about their work. Bon viveur abounds here, which is what dining out Italian-style is all about.
Salvo’s 115 Otley Road Headingley Leeds Tel: 0113 275 5017
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