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If you’ve spent any time over the last 32 years in Headingley, then you’ll probably know Salvo’s, a celebrated neighbourhood Italian that has prospered thanks to its devastatingly simple policy of preparing authentic dishes with good ingredients. Here, a plate of pasta with broccoli, fresh chillies and sheep’s cheese becomes a thing of modest magic. Less well known, as yet, is Salvo’s Salumeria a few doors down. By day it’s a deli-café selling local produce and imported artisan delicacies like Pantelleria capers. At night it becomes a hardcore Italian bent (set menus, no choice). Saturday nights regional dinners are particularly interesting and popular. Until March 15th spotlight is on Tuscany, the 10 courses running from simple antipasto, such as salami with mustard fruits, to salmon marinated in thyme citronette with avruga caviar. Tony Naylor.
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